»What is this strange gravity that draws us to her? What is planted in my heart that rises up within my chest, like a flower to early morning sunlight, on the first glimpse of the ocean over the headlands? Is there a rhythm to the high and low tides of our lives, the ebb and flow of each numbered day? Does the sea reconnect something deep within us that we have lost somewhere along the way?«
…Saudades do Surf!!! Und so jemand – wie etwa Brian Allen in der The Surfers Path /No.80 – etwas ähnlich passendes über das, »what we are really talking about when we talk about surfing« zu erzählen hat, keine Scheu, just leave a comment…
